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Perfect Pinning (+ a giveaway!!)

Pins. It’s just as simple as sticking them through the fabric right? Well, not quite. Firstly, there’s the type of pin you use. Right tools for the right job applies to pins as much as it applies to any other sewing tool. Some pins are longer/sharper/finer depending on the type of fabric and project you are undertaking. Some excellent info about pin types and their uses here, here, and here….pinning tips

Then there is the question of quality. As with many tools, not all pins are created equal. The best pins will slide smoothly through your fabric without snagging and without force; and they will last you many years without becoming blunt or rusting if used and stored correctly. My personal bug bear are cheap pins with plastic heads. Ack! I only ever use glass headed pins. They tend to be of better quality and most importantly, if you’re pressing around them, they don’t melt if you accidentally touch them with the iron! (I learnt that lesson early!)

But what about how to pin? It’s one of those things that, when I first started sewing, I assumed was a no brainer.  Stick it through the fabric. Job done. Right? Well no. There’re subtleties to pinning, as with any sewing technique. Little things. But things that collectively, can incrementally improve your sewing. So I thought I’d share a few of my “personal pinning protocols” (shameless opportunity for alliteration seized, ha!). Little things that I was taught when I first learnt to sew and stick to still…and the logic behind them…pinning tips

This is the way I pin the most. Always within the seam allowance. So if my pins do end up leaving holes (some fabrics render this likely) then they are not visible on the outside of the garment. It also means that I can leave my pins in place until the very last second as they pass to the side of the presser foot rather than the middle of it. So shifting of fabric is minimised. I will also always pin with the points facing towards the presser foot. It makes them easy to pull out as you go. (If they were facing the other way…well…cack handed!)

pinning tips

When sewing some seams, you’ll be required to stop at a given point and back stitch and/or switch to a different stitch length. (Think preparing a seam for zip insertion for instance). I always mark this point with a different coloured pin, pinned at right angles to my other pins. It just gives me a visual aid and a precise marker as to where I want that needle to stop.

pinning tips

When pattern matching is important I will pin at right angles to the seam that I am sewing. When sewing stripes for instance, I will pin stripe on top of stripe at regular and small intervals.  Pinning at right angles “locks” the fabric more effectively than pinning in a linear way. The difference on a plain and/or stable fabric is negligible. But even minimal shifting will be visually really obvious on stripes. I will also employ this method of pinning on more slippery fabrics. There is an argument for always pinning this way all the time. But I tend to employ it when I want to ramp up the accuracy and precision on seams where the slightest shift would be really obvious either visually or where accurate alignment is vital. (easing in collars, sleeves, necklines etc) If I can get away with just using a few pins, pinned vertically and spaced far apart then I will always default to that. Heck, I have been know to dispense with pins altogether. Some projects are more forgiving than others. But sometimes, when it absolutely has to be accurate, this is the method I go for.

pinning tips

Now I am right handed. And my pin dish sits to the right hand side of my machine. So actually the way that I have pinned in the previous photo is actually a bit illogical.  Because I end up pulling the pins out with my left hand, passing them across to my right hand (or worse, holding them in my mouth as I go!) so I can put them in the pin dish to the right hand side of me. It’s actually a tad cack handed for me. And I have no explanation for that. Used to bug my sewing teacher no end, lol! When pinning at right angles it would make more sense to have the heads facing to the right like this. Just saying. But the cack handed way in which I do it is now so ingrained in my muscle memory, it’s unlikely to change now!

How you pin isn’t just about the direction of pinning of course. It also has to do with how you hold the fabric when you pin. This is how I would automatically put my pins in when I first started sewing. I’d pick the fabric up and stick the pins in like so…pinning tips

That is until my sewing teacher walked up and slapped my hand! (Old school she was!) I will preface this next bit of advice by saying that, as with most rules, there are exceptions. There are times that you can get away with doing this and times you when it will affect the accuracy of your pinning. Depending on the fabric, as you pick it up like this, the layers can shift. On trickier, more slippery fabrics, the more you move them, the more they shift….

pinning tips

As a rule, if you can keep your fabric flat like so…

pinning tips

And pin on the flat, then there will be less chance of layers shifting and therefore, more accuracy across your project.

Talking of keeping things flat…pinning tips

Pins are not always the final step when you absolutely must have a completely flat and secure fabric sandwich before you pass it through the machine…zips are the most obvious example of a situation where it’s vital that everything lies flat and secure before you put a permanent line of stitching in there…

pinning tips

If you’ve ever questioned why you ought to baste a zip rather than just pin it…just look at the photo above and the effect that pinning can have on your seamline, compared to how flat the fabric edge is on the basted section! Now I’m not saying baste everything. Life (and sewing time) is too short for that! But when it absolutely has to be accurate, you’ll be pleased you added in the extra step. Promise!

So, if all of that has you wanting to up your pin game, then here’s a treat for you. The pins featured in this post (above and below) are Hiroshima pins. Japanese pins of superior quality. They come in the most gorgeous packaging (I’m such a sucker for packaging)…hiroshima pins
hiroshima pins

 

And they are like miniature works of art in their own right. In order below are tulip hiroshima glass headed patchwork pins, Akari pins and Shizuku pins…pinning tipshiroshima pinshiroshima pins

Aren’t they STUNNING! They are part of the newly expanded range of hiroshima pins now available at Beyond Measure. Grace has the most exquisite taste. And she is very generously offering one reader the chance to win 4 packs of luxury Hiroshima pins of their choice.

To be in with a chance of winning simply subscribe to Grace’s newsletter here. Additional entries for facebook and instagram follows. Then leave a comment here to let me know how many entries (ie what you’ve followed/subscribed to). Giveaway is open internationally and closes at midnight GMT on Sunday 26th February.

Good luck and happy pinning!!

  6. Lovely post, thank you Portia…. Pinning strategies needed a real scientific explanation hehehe! Of course I ‘need’ these beautiful Japanese glass headed pins 🤔🤓 so I’ve entered on insta and subscribed. x Deepti.

    Reply

  7. Thank you for this blog post, it’s incredibly helpful.
    I have subscribed to Beyond Measure’s newsletter, as well as following them on Facebook and Instagram.
    Yet more lovely things to lust after!

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  8. I had already subscribed to the mailing list and have now ‘liked’ on facebook and followinf on instagram …

    Fingers crossed for those wonderful pins …!!

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  11. The suggestions in the article are the exact things I do in pinning anything. I love long pins so purchased some “quilting” pins. They were horrible! I do many formal dress alterations and I found many of the quilting pins were dull! They either wouldn’t go through the fabric at all or snagged it! Not cool when it happens in front of the client! Yikes! I have switched over to flat head pins and like them so far. Nice and slender, sharp, with a large head that makes them easy to grasp.
    I will be liking on Facebook.

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  12. Wow! They’re lovely. I’m already following on Instagram so I’ll subscribe and like because, well, it’s a fabulous giveaway!

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  14. Hello, I’ve just recently found your site and I love it! Thanks for your work and for giving me the chance to know about Beyond Mesure and Hiroshima pins, now I follow Grace by Newsletter and Facebook.

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  16. Hiya what a brilliant article I’d never understood all the different ways to put thepins in I look forward to trying these. I would love to be entered into the competition I have liked and followed on facebook and instagram and subscribed to the newsletter

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  18. What wonderful pins! I subscribed to Grace’s newsletter-followed on Facebook-followed on Instagram. Thank you, Susan

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  19. I used to pin backwards too when pinning perpindicular to the seam, but it was easier to switch than I thought it would be (and so much easier when sewing!).

    I’ve entered on all 3.

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  20. The pins are beautiful! 🙂
    Thank you for the giveaway! I’ve subscribed the mailing list and started following on facebook and instagram.
    Have a nice day!

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      • Lol. Dah on me. I never thought i would see a in depth piece on pins (seriously). I throughly enjoyed it. I am going to take your tips and use them, especially for stripes which i avoid because of matching issues. Thank you

        Reply

  25. So, I minded you and went over to Beyond Measure. It was fun to look over the shop items. Thank you for sending me. I also went to FB and liked. And then to IG and stayed way too long. I need some new pins. I hope that I win.

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  28. Those pins are gorgeous – I wonder if you can get a little test tube rack for them.
    (Signed up for the newsletter, already following on IG, and now liked on FB.)

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  29. These are indeed beautiful pins. I just ordered them and received them today but I won’t mind winning some more.
    I follow already the newsletter and IG.
    Wis

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  31. Grace has amazing taste, loved everything I have from her. Already subscribed to her newsletter so will enter here and as craftydormouse on IG. Thanks

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  32. What beautiful pins! I’ve never seen them before! I’ve subscribed to the mailing list and on Facebook (I don’t have Instagram).

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  33. Thank you for the tips about pinning. I subscribed to the newsletter, followed on instagram and Facebook. Thank you for the giveaway.

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  37. Interesting article. I think I need to treat myself to some new pins! Love the look of these. I have subscribed to Grace’s newsletter.

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  38. I’m already subscribed and an Instagram follower of Grace – hope that counts. I am the proud owner of one of her lovely wood and tweed pincushions

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  40. I am new to sewing and I just subscribed to Grace’s newsletter and followed on Facebook. I feel like a kid again enjoying all new wonderful toys. These pins are so pretty and the packaging makes them much more fun. I bought a little box of pins a while ago not as nice.

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  43. Beautiful pins! I’ve subscribed to the newsletter – no idea why I haven’t before – and already follow you both on Instagram 🙂

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  47. Two entries for mr….subscribed and followed on IG. The pins are gorgeous! Just when I was thinking of switching to fabric weights I find these. Well, still need pins for zippers and hems, right?

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  54. great information, and those pins are beautiful! I both signed up for the newsletter, and shared with all the sewing women in the family. Thank you!

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  56. I knew some of your pin tips – taught from my Nana, but the glass pins and how to pin stripes I didn’t know about. Thank you for your help and those pins are truely fantasticly beautiful! Thank you for the chance to win not just one box but four – I can share with my friend who sews beautifully but I’m sure she doesn’t have glass pins either. I am following by facebook, instragram and subscription. 🙂

    Reply

  57. Thank you on a great perfect pinning protocol. And I’m so glad you shared Beyond Measure. Always interested in something a bit different with good treaty bits.
    I’ve signed up to the newsletter and am following facebook….

    Reply

  60. I love this post. A reminder that my Mother is always right and her teaching me how to pin isn’t just her being fussy (only making patterns with the pin head colours is!). I’ve subscribed to Graces newsletter and followed on Facebook.

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  61. Thank you for a really interesting article! I was already subscribed to Grace’s newsletter (love her shoo!) so I’ve ‘liked’ her in FB.

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  63. I’m now following on FB and Instagram, but for some reason, The newsletter form won’t let me follow; it keeps saying ‘too many attempts in the first five minutes’ (or similar), even though that’s not the case:(
    GREAT pins, though! Thank you for the information.

    Reply

  64. Ooh, new shop to me. I love finding new places to spend my money (if only I had more money to go round!). I’ve newslettered, facebooked and instagrammed, so 3 entries.

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  66. Hi, I need new pins and have bought several that are just not good 🙁 I have subscribed to the newsletter and hope to win some decent pins…

    Reply

  67. Thank you for your interesting article on pins and pinning and hosting Grace’s giveaway. I would love to have some of these pins. I have subscribed to Grace’s Newsletter and followed her on Facebook.

    Reply

  68. Thanks for an interesting post and for the chance to win those lovely pins. I’ve subscribed to the newsletter and followed on Instagram.

    Reply

  72. Thank you for very helpful post and chance to win gorgeous pins. I have subscribed to newsletter and followed on Facebook.

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  73. I never knew pins could be so pretty! I should really upgrade my plastic ones at some point soon. I’ve followed instagram and the newsletter!

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  81. Portia, you are a diamond. I have a huge stack of fabric but am such a scaredycat about ruining it! I question everything I have to do so it’s basic information like this, but explained in every detail, that I crave. This is fabulous, thank you.

    Reply

  83. Thanks for this great post! I’ve always been confused about what kind of pins to use. I signed up for the Beyond Measure newsletter and I follow them on Instagram, so I have two entries.
    Thanks!

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  87. These pins are lovely and make me realise my existing ones would probably make me hang my head in shame! Subscribed and already follow you both on Instagram

    Reply

  89. I’ve been subscribed to the newsletter since I found Beyond Measure through IG. Grace had the most exquisite taste and stock the most gorgeous pieces of craftsmanship. I’ve ordered several items and every time I receive my order I feel like opening a little treasure chest! I haven’t come across anything remotely closed to what Beyond Measure stands for.

    Reply

  91. Great blog and it’s stopped me feeling guilty about having all pin types in my collection I feel totally justified however I don’t have the amazing glass pins by beyond measure so lim signed up and following

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  92. Very instructive post!
    For the pins giveaway, I’m following Beyond measures on Instagram and Facebook and I subscribed to the newsletter. Thanks a bunch!

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  93. Very helpful post beautifully photographed, I have subscribed, am already following on instagram and facebook. Thank you.

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  94. Thank you for all the tips! I usually pin in the sewing allowances as you do, excepted for sleeves, bias and gatherings which I find much easier to handle with perpendicular pinning. And I also lift my fabric like you, so now I’ll take care to keep it as flat as possible (which I actually already do when pinning the pattern pieces…).

    I subscribed to the newsletter, Facebook and Instagram accounts, so 3 entries for me!

    Reply

  96. I’ve been contemplating upgrading my pins since I got the beautiful leather pin cushion from Grace’s shop for my birthday. These Japanese pins are high up on my list! Just signed up for the newsletter and was following on Instagram already.

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  99. Ooh those last pins with the drops of colour! The cork stoppered bottles are pretty special too! Thanks for the helpful info and the giveaway. Entered all three!

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  100. What a marvellous giveaway! Great pinning tips. I’ve followed on instagram and facebook, and subscribed to the newsletter:-)

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  101. Ooh, I’ve been thinking about getting some new pins and these look perfect! I’ve subscribed to the newsletter and following on Facebook and Instagram. Thanks for the opportunity 🙂

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  103. Fascinating post – I had never thought much about my pinning techniques but this has made me consider them in greater detail. I’ve got 3 entries (IG craftygirl1964)

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  104. Great blog. I have never learned about pinning before so this was very helpful! Registered for the comp! Was already following on IG

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  105. Pretty pins! I’ve not seen these before and would love some! Following on instagram/Facebook and have subscribed to the newsletter 🙂

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  107. My current favourite pins are yellow glass head ones, have discovered the benefit of the bright colour is being able to spot them easily when I dropped the lot on the floor…
    Already subscribed to the newsletter and following on Insta, so I’ve followed on FB too to complete the set!

    Reply

  108. I’ve been thinking about pins a lot lately, as an old source dried up and I need nrw ones. This post is so helpful, thank you! I entered the contest in all 3 places, would love to try these beauties out.

    Reply

  112. I’m the lucky recipient of the wrist ruler and leather needle wallet for Christmas and already stalk Grace by her newsletter, Facebook and Instagram 😂

    Reply

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