Top Tip: How to raise a “too wide” Raglan Neckline

So last week I made my first Linden sweatshirt (It’s black and I’m still trying to get some decent pics to show you, because I hacked it slightly!) and I have to say, as with the Hemlock from Grainline Studio, I’m hooked. The one issue I seem to have with both patterns is the width of the neckline. In the sense that it’s just a smidge too wide for my liking and ends up slipping to one side during wear and exposing my bra strap. Which is a pet hate of mine. Raising the neckline a little is a super easy adjustment if this is an issue you have too. Plus it means yet ANOTHER use for my favourite, unexpected sewing tool….Masking tape!!!

Raising the neckline on a raglan top is slightly (but only slightly) different to adjusting a standard neckline in that you need to perform the alteration on 3 pattern pieces (Front, back and sleeve pieces) as opposed to a set in or drop sleeve pattern where you only have to alter 2 pieces (Front and back). Because with a raglan top, the top of the sleeve forms part of the neckline. Savvy?

I should preface the “instructions” herein, for the sake of clarity and offending any drafting purists, that technically speaking any alteration to a pattern piece probably should “technically” involve removing the seam allowances, making the adjustments, then adding the seam allowances back on. That’s more faff than I could be bothered with considering this was such a tiny adjustment and didn’t alter the overall shape of the pattern piece. I’m not a stickler for rules for the sake of rules and in some instances it’s just not always necessary, imho. This worked for me. And took 5 minutes.  End of story ;)

Stick a piece of masking tape along the edge that you are going to alter. Then flip it over and lay a second piece of tape lined up over the top of the first piece of tape, sticky sides together. Essentially sandwiching the edge of your pattern piece between two strips of masking tape and creating a little extension piece. Kinda the same as gluing a strip of paper behind it, except less messy, sturdier and quicker!

Using a seam gauge or the end of a tape measure work your way around the edge adding on your desired increase. Mine was a 1/2″ all the way around each curve of all 3 pattern piece. (Front, back, and sleeve neckline curves). Make sure the vertical outer edges (ie the cb and cf fold lines) remain at right angles; and that the angled raglan seam lines are extended at that same angle…

Join up your dotted line in a smooth curve….

Then cut out along the new line and you’re done. No more flashing of bra straps, lol! (That’s not just me is it?)

Repeat for all three pattern pieces 🙂 *Update: (thanks to the peops that reminded me) you’ll need to alter the neckband to fit as well; as the neckline is now smaller the neckband will need to be marginally shorter too. I just pinned it to fit, then trimmed away the excess.  🙂 

I will hopefully have pics of my new Linden hack to share with you tomorrow. To be fair, a little idiotic of me to pick something black to photograph in the middle of a grey winter, with these crappy light levels, lol! Anyone else have serious blog photography woes??  It’s one area that causes me alot of frustration. Would be interested in hearing from you on that….;)